It has been nearly six months since Gucci replaced its creative director Frida Giannini with its then accessories designer Alessandro Michele. It was a highly publicised change of guard, with an acrimonious split between Gucci and both its creative and financial directors, after the house suffered consecutive sales losses and lukewarm receptions...
Jun 19, 2015
Shirtdresses and coats were the order of the day at Sacai. Outerwear was best in combinations of baseball jackets and feral furs, cable knits and windowpane checks. The silhouette was a women's version of a men's-sized garment, but it was the detailing that stood out, like fur peeking out from under collars, cuffs, and sleeves of wool and tweed...
Mar 10, 2015
The seventies-inspired trend that is happening now is probably closest in aesthetic to Chloe, the house that founded ready-to-wear and is known for its fluid tailoring. 60 years after the house was founded, creative director Clare Waight Keller has kept to Chloe's codes, stating: “I really wanted to capture something confident, but still with a...
Mar 9, 2015
Junya Watanabe's autumn/winter 15 collection will be challenging to those who cannot see beyond wearability. Watanabe said he was “exploring dimensionality through clothing,” executed in cut, fold and construction. Circular Chinese paper lanterns or 3D incarnations of Victor Vasarely paintings started to blossom over the body accompanied by...
Mar 8, 2015
Loewe's London-based creative director Jonathan Anderson looked to the 80s for inspiration as he had done with his own namesake label during London Fashion Week last month. In Paris he showed modernist geometric prints patterned across dresses layered over metallic trousers. Leather jackets, a Loewe staple, came in classic slouchy silhouettes...
Mar 7, 2015
Roland Mouret is not a label that will propose an exciting new movement in fashion. But not every designer needs to chart of path of distinctiveness, sometimes it's about knowing what works, who the customer is and what flatters a women's body. And that applies to Mouret. Best known for his dresses, this season's presentation may not have the...
Mar 6, 2015
Christophe Lemaire, the former creative director of Hermès, showed his Autumn/Winter 15 collection a day after he announced Lemaire would be partnering with Uniqlo. His look is an every day wardrobe of unforced elegance. There are no gimmicks, screaming distinctions or over-styled looks. Outerwear was strong with raincoats, peacoats, duffles and...
Mar 5, 2015
It was art meets fashion at Japanese label Anrealage's second season on the Paris catwalks. Graphic and conceptional, designer Kunihiko Morinaga didn't introduce colour until the 22nd look. It was a play of light and shadow, with dark garments featuring lens-shaped colours that looked as if they were projected on the clothes. The clothes...
Mar 4, 2015
The Italian dolce vita is a concept that has long resonated around the globe, but this season a lack of ambition on its catwalks have meant for a bland fashion week. Of course there were the occasional triumphs, the new Gucci under creative director Alessandro Michele, Prada's princesses show, or even up and coming talent Arthur Arbesser's...
Mar 3, 2015
There was pistachio green and powder pink as delectable as macarons, but instead these were clothes that designer Miuccia Prada was challenging with ideals of beauty. What lies beneath the surface? On the catwalk we saw models dressed as debutantes from the 60s in all shades of pastel colours that were slightly off. The fabric of choice was a...
Mar 2, 2015
Ashley Williams' fashion followers will be wearing leather corsets and 80s heavy metal tees, according to his offer next season. As the show commented, a voice over the sound system roared: “The key to saving the future can be found only in the past.” As was evident, Williams looked to the past to find inspiration in 80s and 90s pop culture and...
Feb 25, 2015
Mulberry's appointment of creative director Johnny Coca late 2014 was expected to be a turning point for the British accessories company, which suffered a downturn since upping prices of its bags. Financials aside, the new bag to stimulate consumers next season is the Roxette, which came in a curly sheepskin version and croc printed calf hair....
Feb 23, 2015